Sep 2012

Foaming Gelatin Video


Foaming Gelatin Recipe

Take 100 gram of the gelatine base.

Dissolve 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of Tartaric acid (food stores) in 1 teaspoon (5 ml) sorbitol in a little cup. You should always stay away from using water because it evaporates and makes the pieces less stable. Let the mixture stand for at least a minute.

Melt the gelatine in a big plastic cup (at least 5 dl so it won’t run over the edges later on).
In a microwave oven 100 g will melt in 30-60 seconds.
Once again be careful not to let it boil.

Stir down 1-6 teaspoons (5-30 ml) of white school glue (ex. Elmers in the US) with a plastic spatula or plastic spoon.
This type of glue is vinyl based and will help the bubbles from breaking down.
This will make the gelatine to be more stable and not collapse after cooling down.
The more glue you use the more stable it will get but it will also get harder and less elastic.
You will have to experiment to find a good mix for your purposes.

The reason why you should only use plastic tools is that cold metal tools inhibit the foaming process.

Now add the tartaric acid mix and stir quickly.

Now add 1 teaspoon (5 ml) Bicarbonate (food stores) and again stir quickly.

Now magic is happening! Let the mix rise for a while without stirring it. 30 seconds usually works fine..

The gelatine is foaming because the mix of tartaric acid and bicarbonate in combination with the heat produces carbondioxid (the same gas as you exhale).

The foam now needs to be refined for about a minute by slowly stirring before you use it in a mould or directly on skin.
If it cools of to much during the process you can reheat it in the microwave for a couple of seconds

Prosthetic Grade Gelatin Base Mix

This recipe comes courtesy of UndeadVoodooMonkey over at

The first recipe is a standard formula used for making prosthetics if you have ever bought “Gel FX” this is something like that just WAY less expensive.

• 100 grams sorbitol
• 100 grams glycerine
• 20-30 grams gelatine (300 bloom, an industrial grade)
• water based makeup or powdered makeup for colour.
• pinch of red rayon flocking

Mix a small amount of zinc oxide with some sorbitol or glycerine and add this to you mix for opacity about a 1/2-1 gram, wait till all the gelatine absorbs the liquids before melting, overnight if you have time.
Heat in microwave for 1 1/2-2 mins intervals mixing well in between cooking times. Don't allow mixture to boil or foam. If you have to let it cool down some to keep it from bubbling do so. When all the gelatine crystals are melted its ready to pour. Spray a light coat of pam cooking spray or brush a light coat of Vaseline or caster oil onto you positive and negative moulds. Pour in your gelatine and clamp or stand on your closed mould. Depending on your thickness it should be set in 1/2 - to a few hours. De-mould carefully leaving it in the negative side of the mould. Try to leave the flashing on the piece this will give you something to hold during the application and keep your edges from rolling under. While still in the mould use 99% alcohol to clean the release off the back of your prosthetic or this will keep it from sticking to the skin. Before gluing it down you need to brush a barrier on the backside to keep sweat from dissolving it. Use Pros-Aide or Telesis or spirit gum first then a layer on the face where the piece will sit. Press in place working from the centre out, use a little witch hazel to dissolve your edges and remove the flashing. Lightly powder and colour with makeup. This recipe can also be used directly on the skin to buildup burns and scars OBVIOUSLY let it cool down to a safe temperature before using. Here is a picture to see some of this stuff in action, I find it easier to colour than foam latex because it's translucent plus you can get a very close colour match to your skin type. It is not as durable as foam and does not do well on hot sweaty days so be sure to use it in the right places.